Hole in the deck xtr

[giacomo]

Hi all.
Unfortunately i found a little hole in my "new" nfa 7 xtr just bought. I guess it caused by shipping.
what i have to do now? The board need a serious repair or it's ok just sand and put solarez?







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[Crafter]

Hi Giacomo,

to my mind, this board need a repair with fiber and resin, but if you want to go in the water right now you can sand the area and put some solarez to begin with.

Thanks

[coolas]

Yes, as it is far from stress points (fin boxes), Solarez should do the job fine.
And as Crafter says, you can always afterwards do a proper repair.

[giacomo]

Yes, as it is far from stress points (fin boxes), Solarez should do the job fine.
And as Crafter says, you can always afterwards do a proper repair.

i would try with solarez cause I want try the board asap...
so I should sand it and fill the hole with solarez right?
there isn't the problem that the solarez "crack" soonest? maybe I should cover the solarwz repair with some transparent spray varnish?


edit: I have not the solarez but the Dura Rezn
I have also some FCS mastic: http://www.surfcornerstore.it/fcs_masti ... iparazione

[coolas]

Dura Rezn is OK.

- sand to remove the paint on every part the resin will touch. Delimit the area with waterproof tape #1, as thin as possible (wrapping tape is nice) to be sure. The edge of the repair will be of the height of this tape, so thin means less to sand.

- Outside of any UV light (glass stops UV so indoor if all the windows are closed is OK) fill the hole with solarez / Dura Rezn, just enough so that you do not have to sand a lot afterwards.

- apply clear PVC tape #2 to cover the resin tightly, no air bubbles should be left. My advice is to apply the tape in two parts from the outside to the inside of the repair, so the excess resin will come out in the center, above the tape #2 from the center. Otherwise you will push the resin above the delimiting tape #1, and the tape #2 will not stick to it. Stretch well when applying so that the tape pushes well on the resin, kind of a poor man vacuum bag.
Have a paper tissue handy to remove the excess resin

- put the repair in the sun, or under an UV light, for 3 minutes. Try to only put the repair in the sun, not the whole board

- remove the tapes, and go SUPing... no need to sand now, you can sand later at any time.

If done well, Solarez repairs are quite strong and do not need to be re-done later. Plus you can do strong repairs in 5 minutes, even at any time if you have an UV light such as: https://www.amazon.it/Vansky-Blacklight ... ref=sr_1_3

[giacomo]

Dura Rezn is OK.

- sand to remove the paint on every part the resin will touch. Delimit the area with waterproof tape #1, as thin as possible (wrapping tape is nice) to be sure. The edge of the repair will be of the height of this tape, so thin means less to sand.

- Outside of any UV light (glass stops UV so indoor if all the windows are closed is OK) fill the hole with solarez / Dura Rezn, just enough so that you do not have to sand a lot afterwards.

- apply clear PVC tape #2 to cover the resin tightly, no air bubbles should be left. My advice is to apply the tape in two parts from the outside to the inside of the repair, so the excess resin will come out in the center, above the tape #2 from the center. Otherwise you will push the resin above the delimiting tape #1, and the tape #2 will not stick to it. Stretch well when applying so that the tape pushes well on the resin, kind of a poor man vacuum bag.
Have a paper tissue handy to remove the excess resin

- put the repair in the sun, or under an UV light, for 3 minutes. Try to only put the repair in the sun, not the whole board

- remove the tapes, and go SUPing... no need to sand now, you can sand later at any time.

If done well, Solarez repairs are quite strong and do not need to be re-done later. Plus you can do strong repairs in 5 minutes, even at any time if you have an UV light such as: https://www.amazon.it/Vansky-Blacklight ... ref=sr_1_3

thanks Coolas, I will try soon.
Just one thing, I notice in past that the Dura Rezn does not harden as the Solarez. Is my foult or not?

[coolas]

UV resins in the repair kits(*) do not harden if in contact with oxygen.

This is why you need to cover with tape without air bubbles before putting in the sun. The benefit is that if the resin is old, exposing it to the air "refreshes" it and makes it good again. This makes the resin usable for years (I used an old solarez tube that was in my van for 20 years).

When people say that solarez do not work, it is always because they did not cover the resin with a clear plastic film before putting in the sun. (or did not sand before applying it)

But it is only the outside layer that stays sticky. Just remove it with alcohol, and you should find that the resin is hard and properly cured underneath.

I never used Dura Rezn, only Solarez, but it should be similar.

(*) other UV resins used for laminating do not have this behavior. Whole boards can be laminated with UV resins:

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PS: the only drawbacks of UV resins is that the light must penetrate the whole repair: so no solarez for repairing fin boxes or handles, or with carbon fiber, and you must be careful with microspheres and fiberglass, since glass stops the UV and with prevent curing if not enough light can go through the glass fibers. But Solarez, and I guess Dura Rezn have glass fibers already mixed in.

[giacomo]

- remove the tapes, and go SUPing... no need to sand now, you can sand later at any time.

ok, and what if I want to sand? After sand I put spray varnish or nothing?

[coolas]

No need for any varnish.

You can use paint to make the repair invisible: for XTR, standard red (RAL3020) then sanded to get the "brushed carbon" effect, and then varnish to protect the paint from the UVs.

[giacomo]

No need for any varnish.

You can use paint to make the repair invisible: for XTR, standard red (RAL3020) then sanded to get the "brushed carbon" effect, and then varnish to protect the paint from the UVs.

perfect.
and the sanding is with the red spray fresh just sprayied or I need to wait some minutes?

[coolas]

and the sanding is with the red spray fresh just sprayied or I need to wait some minutes?

You need to wait for it to dry.

You can try to paint and then immediately remove most of it with a paper tissue, but I found it was quite hard to get the intended result with way. Sanding is more predictable.

[giacomo]

Ok.
2 days ago after work i made a first step:
Put off the crack, so I had a clean hole with the board pain at sight ((
i filled the hole with some FCS mastice. The day afyer i sand it to the same level of the deck.
The board is bad looking with this white repair but i think is pretty good for The moment.
Next step is cover it with some solarez/dura rezn and then color it.
I hope it will be enough.

I prefer this way for save money and save time...



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[Ours]

Hello,

this is not the best solution. By the end you will loose money.
A nice repair with a little of carbon to keep the same strength and looking would be way much better.

Thanks,

[giacomo]

Hello,

this is not the best solution. By the end you will loose money.
A nice repair with a little of carbon to keep the same strength and looking would be way much better.

Thanks,

Hi master, u right but I did not want to loose time... surely I'll bring the board to a local shaper soon for a proper repair.

edit: i cannot attach the image...